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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled high among these food giants is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has made the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.